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Richym99

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Posts posted by Richym99

  1. 3 hours ago, tallthinkev said:

    Yep, see now reason why not. The only one I wish to have now is a 1962. Multi 58's 66'68's but not one 62.

    If you are looking for a 62, you might have to go outside the forum. They rarely come up on here and are the toughest of the gillicks to find at a sensible price. 

  2. 12 hours ago, tallthinkev said:

    I'm not one for grading, much more of a stacker, yet.

    I have noticed the a very small number or Gillick head sov's are above MS 65. Of course it's unlikely I have one. There are quite a few that are MS 64 and 65, still not many. It seems you can pick up a 1925 more easy than a 58-68, at MS65/66.

    Is it worth grading a Gillick head as the population is low, if so how much more could they sell for verses the cost of the grading?

    Over to you.

    Don't forget many 1925's were actually post war issue using the 25 dies. 

  3. 2 hours ago, StackemHigh said:

    Last time i looked at a slabbed coin on the internet what a shock i got. A ten pack of unused slabs with preprinted labels! The idea is i believe to put cleaned coins that wouldn't get the desired grade in the slabs to sell on. Real coins real slabs and still a real con.

    That's where due diligence comes in. At the very least the bar code should be checked against image of the coin on the NGC/PCGS website. If that doesn't correspond, it should be reported. 

  4. 11 minutes ago, Wampum said:

    Slight word omission there sorry, should have been collectors experience, it's not just NGC,

    any third party grader.

    What I was really meaning to say is that if someone new to the field starts buying top pops, and once starts to gain more experience in coins,

    finds out they possibly could have gained more bang for their buck through Raw coins as it where, Numismatics should be a good pass time without buyers remorse ,

    Fully agree however Caveat Emptor.      

    Nobody forces anyone to buy slabbed coins. There are plenty of outlets selling raw coins as well. As you say, however, Caveat Emptor. You only have to look at the number of threads in these very forums started by individuals who have bought or thinking of buying coins that they are having doubts about authenticity. Then you have the other side, where someone will post a photo of a coin and ask for an opinion on it's grade, only to be told it is not possible to reliably judge from a photo. But isn't that what you do when you buy a raw coin online. You look at a photo and make a judgement whether it is worth what you are being asked to pay for it. 

    At least with slabbed coins, you are buying something which is 99.9% guaranteed genuine and is of known quality, which you can then compare for value to similar quality coins.  

  5. 12 minutes ago, Wampum said:

    totally agree with you that a high grade would (and should) command a better price ,

    however there were over 2 million minted for this year, NGC have graded 115 so with 6 graded as 66 that makes a total of 5% of the total submitted getting the top grade that NGC have given out.

    I just feel that it is unfair that someone has paid more for the plastic than the coin.

    Gillick sovereigns are really beautiful coins and can be found raw in pristine condition, NGC can ruin a collector as they look at the grade and not what is in the holder.      

    NGC only grade the coins on an anonymous basis, so to suggest they can ruin a collector is a liitle OTT. They do not assign a value to any particular grade.

    Ultimately, the only person responible for the final sale price is the person who submitted the bid. If they over bid then it is they who have to accept the responsibility. 

  6. The first six coins I sent to NGC for grading, four were modern (EIi sovereigns and two older (a Vic and a GV)

    I marked all six for conservation as well as grading. The conserved the four modern sovs, but declined and didn't charge for conserving the two oldest.   

  7. 48 minutes ago, Foster88 said:

    It’s good to see another ‘fan’, is that the right word, of the George V small head variety.

    I have 8 of the 10 and I’m still looking to buy the 1929 M and 1931 M. They’re not cheap.

    @DukeSilver I’d check all of your sovereigns.

    On your original question, I too keep my sovereigns in plastic capsules. Plastic flips are also good but I prefer capsules. It’s much better to keep them in the best condition as possible.

    Just following you lead really Foster. They are a nicely compact set of ten, which makes collecting them attainable, albeit a little expensive for the Melbournes, but comparable to collecting shields. 

  8. 15 minutes ago, DukeSilver said:

    I actually have a 1930 sovereign from the Perth mint, and a 1931 from the SA mint. I never realised they might be collectable. Perhaps I should put those two aside from the rest of my stack.

    Thanks for the advice!

    I have just paid £422 for a 1930P, albeit MS grade. The grade makes all the difference to the value. 

    Of the "small head" George V sovs issued between 1929 and 1931 inc (and 32 in South Africa), the Perth mint coins are either regarded as scarce or rare, whilst the Melbourne coins are even rarer. All the SA dates are common. Sydhey and London did not issue sovereigns in those years.  

    Even if you don't want to swing to the expense of a copy of Marsh, I would suggest at least going onto playbooks and buying a downloadable copy of Spink's Coins of  England (Which covers everything from Roman times to 1971 for all denominations)  together with the Decimal version, covering 1971 to the modern day. You will soon get your money back.  

  9. 15 minutes ago, DukeSilver said:

    That's a great point. I can only imagine the story behind some of the coins I have in my stack, though I try to remain dispassionate when buying/selling.

     

    That would work if you are stacking Brits, Krugs or any number of other modern coins that rarely change in mintage or design from year to year. Much of their value is solely in the precious metals. 

    Sovereigns are very different. Unless you know the difference in value between, for example, a 1931 Melbourne mint and a 1931 South Africa mint, you could be throwing away thousands when you sell.  As far as intrinsic value is concerned, they are both worth £301, but a good quality Melbourne can fetch upwards of £750 while the SA, identical in every way except for the letters SA may get yoh £400. 

  10. 7 minutes ago, Fadeingstar said:

    When it comes to coin shops/dealer I would expect that they would be paying spot value and so I would assume condition isn't as much of an issue.

    I will stand corrected, but most outlets for buying coins in bulk, such as bullion dealers, porn brokers etc will expect to buy at two or three percent below spot. They will then go through them and resell the better examples at a premium.

    That is where places like this come in. People will snap up reasonable quality sovereigns for £320 day in day out providing they don't have obvious defects like knocks and scratches.

    Better look after them and sell 30 on here for £9,600 than not look after them and take £8,760 for them and watch someone else cash in.   

  11. I suppose it depends on how much value you assign to the them.

    If you consider that, as bullon coins, they are only worth their intrinsic value, then it will matter not what condition they are in. You can put them in a carrier bag and they won't lose their value. After all, you will be selling them as scrap value for melting down.

    If, however, you think that some might be worth a little more than the intrinsic value, it is worth separating them out and properly storing them. Just because you are a stacker, not a collector, presumably still means that you want to get the best possible sale price when it does come to liquidating your assets.

    Personally, if I had a stash of possibly gVF-EF quality sovereigns, I would be doing everything to maintain that and avoid metal to metal contact.

  12. 4 minutes ago, Richiesilver said:

    It's my birthday today! And I finally got my copy of the Marsh Sovereign Book! Going to have plenty of time to read it too as I have broken my jaw in three places and the whole lot is wired shut. Freak Bike accident. This forum is helping me stay sane. Thanks guys.

    20210925_125317.jpg

    Ouch. Speedy recovery to you. Suggested reading too are meals that can be prepared for somebody like yourself with a wired jaw. There are a few out there.  

  13. Received the first of two coins I purchased from CDMA. 

    I had an email from Royal Mail on Thursday to indicate they had received notification of an inbound package and that it's value suggested there woukd be duty to pay.

    The package was delivered this morning with another SD. It is in ungraded condition, which supports the previous suggestion that grades are indicative. (In this case MS62) Paperwork was made out to correctly indicate 0% vat payable, and no charge has been raised by the Royal Mail. 

    All in all, very satisfied, and the coin will be off for grading next week.  

     

    IMG_20210925_101957983_BURST000_COVER_TOP.jpg

    IMG_20210925_102020622_BURST000_COVER_TOP.jpg

    IMG_20210925_102035756_BURST000_COVER_TOP.jpg

  14. Four one star reviews from totally random individuals with next to no activity. Not one said anything to justify the rating, including one who had written three other reviews which totally justified the ratings. None of the accounts (all with very foreign names) display any other interest in coins. 

    Sounds more like some hacked google accounts being used to cause mischief.   

  15. My fear is that any sort of intricate reverse design will be ruined if it they use the rose gold that they have done for every sovereign since 2017. Together with the changes to the minting process, we are likely to see a repeat of the 2012 abomination.  

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