27carrots

I'd only change the price in hours if spot changed drastically.
Different people have different schedules and it takes time for everyone to spot your wares.

This is kind of hard to answer as I started out buying all kinds of different things from spot to double spot to decide what I like and then go from there.
I'm going to be doing most stacking in gold but my opinion on silver is that if I was going to be building up a huge stack I would be trying to hoover up all the milk spotted coins for £25 rather than mint condition £30+ stuff.
You can't handle them and they might milkspot anyway and there is no guarantee they will keep their premiums in the future.
Spot stuff or close to spot stuff will always retain value even if your house burns down with your silver inside.

anyone manage to sell the rip today?
 

And now I see there is a 29eur shipping cost. So that I also need to look at. 
 
Because buying a 1/2 brit at 835 would be cheaper. But the other coin might be more rare I guess?? 
 
Non the less I made my first jump in to gold. And I have now ordered one. ☺️

1/2 oz noah's ark.
5% over spot.
We can't even buy these in the uk.
https://www.geiger-edelmetalle.de/en/online-shop/noahs-ark-armenia-oz-gold-coin.9999-28908.html?c=193

Not great for silver stackers but you can fit £1,000,000 worth of gold coins in this box.

1/2 oz noah's ark.
5% over spot.
We can't even buy these in the uk.
https://www.geiger-edelmetalle.de/en/online-shop/noahs-ark-armenia-oz-gold-coin.9999-28908.html?c=193

sold in 2002 7.59 million £215 maximum spot
resold now 18.9m £1337 spot
should have bought grubby bullion

If that person had bought 7.59 millon worth of gold in 2002 it would now be worth about 46 millon....

This is why we do what we do, thank YOU for the support of the forum and our poured silver!

Many thanks to you and Mrs BYB for all your hard work and to all others who pulled strings behind the scenes. Being a newbie in this world it just adds to a wee sense of belonging if you understand me? 

I see you have already received a few replies from like-minded people, and as usual the advice contains a number of varying opinions.
There are probably similar posts and questions most days.
I sometimes give some input, but I prefer to give answers which are as complete and comprehensive as possible. This means they are long and time-consuming.
In the pre-historic early days of the internet (1998), I started to add advice and opinion pages to our "new" website. Now it belongs in a museum, and not all of the old content has been ported over to our newest site.
I thought about giving you a link to our "Newbie" advice page, but realised it needed updating, so I just wrote the first draft of it, which will get added to our site soon.
Here it is: https://www.chards.co.uk/blog/precious-metals-information-and-advice-for-newbies/1008 (link added 18th June 2021)
Meanwhile I am happy to give you a preview, complete with typos:
 
Newbie Information and Advice
For people thinking about starting to collect, invest, or stack coins or precious metal bullion.
 
First, ask yourself some questions:
What is your prime goal?
Interest in the historical or numismatic aspects of coins.
Investing to make a maximum return.
Investing to protect wealth against inflation, etc.
 
Most interested in:
Coins as numismatic items.
Precious metal content of coins and bars.
 
Metal Preference:
Most interested in:
Gold
Silver
Platinum
Palladium
Open minded
 
Budget
How much do you intend to invest?
Lump sum or regular purchase?
 
Timing
Want to start now, or ASAP
Wait until prices come down.
Wait until prices go up.
 
Home Base
Where do you live, which country, state, etc.
Legal considerations. Is what you want legal to buy or import in your country.
Tax considerations.
In the UK and EU, “Investment Gold” is exempt from VAT.
Other precious metal coins and bars are subject to VAT in the UK and EU.
In the USA, there may be sales tax in some states.
 
Secure Storage
It is worth thinking about how and where you intend to store your stash. For small amounts, this might not be much of a problem, but for higher values, you might need to think about a safe, alarms system, and insurance. Some banks may still offer safe deposit boxes, and safe deposit companies also exist. Check whether your insurance can include these. Alternatively, some companies now offer secure storage usually including insurance. If the storage is in a favourable tax regime, this may also legally avoid VAT on silver, platinum and palladium. Charges vary.
 
Bear / Bull Market Cycles.
Very few people can accurately forecast future precious metal prices, including many people who think they know. If you don’t know, then you are not alone, and at least your are not deluding yourself that you do know.
 
Relative Merits of Gold, Silver, Platinum, and Palladium
As a UK based dealer, we obviously concentrate on the UK market, but we do have a number of non-UK customers and suppliers, so while we are aware of some international markets, most of our thoughts relate to the UK.
Gold is the only one of the four precious metals which is exempt from VAT in the UK and EU, so it is the most obvious metal to choose for investment. Its unique VAT status is probably because it has historically been a monetary metal, renowned for retaining its value, and a range of other factors.
Silver is the other historic monetary metal, but because it is subject to VAT, we do not recommend it as a prime investment metal. It does have its enthusiastic supporters though, and it is relatively affordable.
Platinum and palladium are the other two precious metals, although both metals are newbies compared with gold and silver. Both are also subject to VAT.
Gold:Silver and other ratios.
The ratio of gold to silver prices has had a profound influence on monetary systems for thousands of years, until the last century, when “fiat” currencies have prevailed.
It is worth getting familiar with the current, and also historic gold:silver ratios. This will help you to decide between gold, silver, a different metal, or a combination.
 
Production Costs
Gold has a well-established international market, as does silver to a lesser extent, platinum and palladium markets are smaller and less liquid.
Mining is the most obvious production cost of any metal, but refining and other processing costs also come into play. Gold is cheap and easy to process in relation to its value. Silver is worth much less than gold, but the cost to manufacture a one ounce coin, for example, are not much less than for a similar gold coin, which explain why the percentage premium for silver coins or bars is generally higher than for gold. Platinum and palladium are more difficult to process, so their percentage premiums are also usually higher than for gold. Transport costs are also a higher proportion for silver than for gold. Silver requires more space to store compared with its value, so storage costs are also higher.
 
Coins or Bars?
I’m primarily a coin dealer, so I prefer coins, but there are other good reasons to choose coins rather than bars. Coins have tax or legal advantages in many countries compared with bars. Coins are issued by countries, bars by companies. I hesitate to suggest you trust governments rather than companies, but think about it. Coins are mass produced, and are usually available in a selection of different weights at competitive prices. One ounce coins are a universal choice in modern bullion coins, and hit a “sweet spot” for premiums, but historic coins such as British gold sovereigns (approximately quarter ounce) are also available competitively. Many other countries have their own traditional historic coins which are worth considering.
Bars are also made in many sizes, and you should expect to pay slightly lower premiums for bars rather than coins. The biggest “small” gold bar is one kilo, and should usually be the cheapest bar to buy (in percentage premium terms), however the differential is quite small, and for most investors, smaller sizes such as one ounce, as a better long-term buy. They are more liquid, as more people can afford them, easier to post (and insure), an important consideration when you want to sell.
 
Premiums
Whenever I talk about premiums, unless otherwise stated, I mean percentage premiums. This is the simplest way to compare value. If you don’t understand percentages or simple maths, then I recommend getting a few quick lessons, and a little effort. Education is always a good investment.
 
My general advice:
Buy at the lowest premium within reason. If you have read most of the above, you will understand what I mean, and why.
Changes
Most of the advice I give is generalised. There is a good reason for this. Things change. When I wrote this paragraph heading, I started singing the David Bowie song. Markets are constantly in a state of flux. For this reason, what is good specific advice on Monday morning might not be the same by Friday night. Changes occur over long timeframes of centuries and decades but also happen on shorter timescales of years, months, weeks, days, hours, and even minutes. Gold went up about $10 in a few seconds after the first plane hit on 9/11.
These changes include political, financial, fiscal, personal, local, international.
 
News and Hype
I spend a lot of time reading news. I call it working. In recent years, I have become more aware that most of what I read is written by vested interests, lobby groups, “influencers”, and the like. It is not easy, but try to discern whether facts are accurate, and to work out whether the “news” is coming from an “interested party”. It is often easy to detect hype and bullshit. Be aware that we are all prone to believe what we want to hear rather than what we do not want to hear.
 
Big Spenders and Small Savers
If you have big money to invest, you should have more choice of “best buy” deals.
If you are a small saver, it will be harder for you to get the “sweet spot” for value, so you might have to work a little harder.
 
Big Dealers or Peer-to-Peer
If you want to buy 100 ounces of gold, then almost everyone would agree go to a big, reputable dealer. Chard in Blackpool, England are not the biggest, but are one of the best (I am biased). You can have confidence that what you are buying is genuine.
If you only have a few hundred dollars (more or less) to invest, then you might actually get the best deals shopping around, perhaps on a well-known forum. It is not quite as easy to be certain that what you buy is genuine, but as I said, you may need to work a little harder.
You may be able to find a dealer or scheme which will let you buy small amounts of gold, silver etc., regularly, then switch it into physical when you have enough metal in your account.
 
Who, What, and Where to Avoid
Although it is possible to buy on ebay, it is fraught with danger, riddled with fraudsters, ripe with hype, and probably better avoided, unless you like a gamble. Similar with other auction sites, and private advertisers.
Local auctions can work, and are probably better than ebay, after all it wouldn’t be difficult.
Local coins dealers might work out for you. Jewellers, pawnbrokers and scrap dealers are probably better avoided. Often they don’t know and don’t care if coins are genuine, and many of their coins are sourced from scrap jewellery, and are sub-standard.
Coin Marketing Companies (CMCs)
You will see national newspaper and television adverts for these. Most of them market brand new coin issues at (high) premium prices. Many of these are very gimmicky, the world’s first, biggest, smallest, weirdest, latest, rarest. If you want to buy this stuff, then reading what I say will probably not stop you, but make sure you really want to buy it, and don’t be surprised if nobody is interested when you come to sell, even at half your cost price or less. Most of the CMC’s do not make a market, and will not buy (or buy back) coins, possibly because they don’t want you to realise they have ripped you off.
Some CMCs offer introductory deals (only $49.99 for the next 30 days, $99.99 “normal” price), others do loss leaders, usually restricted to 1 coin per household. This is to get your name on their “suckers” mailing list. They may also try the highly unethical, sometimes illegal, “bait and switch”, in which your personal account manager will try to convince you to buy pre-1933 gold coins telling you they are non-confiscatable. Ask yourself has he really got your best interests at heart, or is he trying to boost his commission, or keep his job?
The guy at the local pub. Also best avoided.
 
 
Links and Resources:
Gold price https://www.chards.co.uk/gold-price/gold-price-per-ounce
Gold:Silver ratio https://www.chards.co.uk/gold-silver-ratio
Other prices and ratios are linked from the above.
You can select different currencies, units of weight, and timescales.
We also have hundreds of other advice pages on our site, as well as on our older “heritage” sites.
 
Errors and Omissions
If there is anything I have missed out, please let me know.
If there are any other questions you would like answering, please submit them on the back of a £50 note, $100 bill, €500 banknote or similar.
 
 
 

To be fair, If I recall correctly, as we have advocated as a community on TSF...do your research, buy what you like, and establish strong relationships with members on TSF... As such, I am quite satisfied with the following Solomon Island 1/4 ounce gold coins added to my collection with great assistance from Emanuel at @RoslandGold...

I really enjoy the strong and unique design of the coins, further embolden by the bronze helmet art piece in the backdrop, sculptured by my late father.

If you are buying in the states I would be looking to stack up on the veinte pesos rather than the 50 pesos. You can get as many 50 pesos as you like here for no more than 5% premium and sometimes less but the veinte pesos are more like 25% premium.
At apmex the premiums are more balanced at 7% and 9%.
https://www.apmex.com/category/13080/mexican-gold-pesos-1959-prior
Gold eagles seem overpriced there as well at about 10% an ounce.

https://www.hattongardenmetals.com/buy/austrian-gold-corona
5% on an Austrian 100 Corona

If you are buying in the states I would be looking to stack up on the veinte pesos rather than the 50 pesos. You can get as many 50 pesos as you like here for no more than 5% premium and sometimes less but the veinte pesos are more like 25% premium.
At apmex the premiums are more balanced at 7% and 9%.
https://www.apmex.com/category/13080/mexican-gold-pesos-1959-prior
Gold eagles seem overpriced there as well at about 10% an ounce.

If you are buying in the states I would be looking to stack up on the veinte pesos rather than the 50 pesos. You can get as many 50 pesos as you like here for no more than 5% premium and sometimes less but the veinte pesos are more like 25% premium.
At apmex the premiums are more balanced at 7% and 9%.
https://www.apmex.com/category/13080/mexican-gold-pesos-1959-prior
Gold eagles seem overpriced there as well at about 10% an ounce.

account name
sort code
bank number
 

i bought gold coins off sv in april and paid no vat or customs
but postage is £27 so you need to factor that in
you might have to from other dealers - it depends what they write on the parcel

@LawrenceChard
This has evidently been cleaned at some point, but goodness me I feel like I have got myself a beauty of a coin for 1.6% over spot (when you factor in postage)
A 1946 original to boot, what a coin. 
If this is what you call a Grade C coin then GIMMIE GIMME GIMME
YES PLEASE!!!!
 

I think it just means you should point out the defects when you resell it rather than make a thread that says
bullion 50 pesos £1650
with no photos unless you don't mind having an angry buyer who wants a refund.

100 set
 

last time it was about 2 days
it runs until they run out and they do it every 10 weeks or so
check march 10 in this thread for last time
give them a fake phone number if you buy

Another problem with silver is that many coins will get milk spots and lose £2 without you even mishandling them. A cheap 1911 sovereign can pass through your digestive system and will probably also lose only £2 in value.

Taking an average of the last 50 years, the gold content of a sovereign should go up £2.25 a month on average and so it's probably better to just buy one every payday rather than save up to buy in bulk.