Rains

Is the price for all 5 ?

Bump!  

For sale: 18ct White Gold & Diamond Ring.   A stunning ring in lovely condition (see pictures).    Fully hallmarked/stamped. 10 diamonds, that are approximately 0.75cts in total. 14.75g in weight.   Approximate dimensions - Band width 7mm. 2.3cm ring diameter.  Each diamond 3 x 3mm.   Ring size S.    £689 posted Special Delivery    Any questions just get in touch, thanks      

I have for sale this very smart collection of Victorian stamp ingots in hallmarked sterling silver. 
6 stamps are reproduced here by Royal Mail and presented in a smart case. Each is of a different size and weight with an overall sterling silver content of 102g, for just over 3oz fine silver. 
Ingots are in good condition with a little hazing on one or two. 
Lovely set. 
Asking just £95 posted 1st class signed for.

Beautiful 2 coin ladies of freedom set. This set includes 2x 1/10th gold proof coins.
A 1/10th proof American gold eagle and a 1/10th proof Britannia with the first special design year for the 10th anniversary. 
Both have been conserved by our resident coin conservationist @GoldDiggerDave and look fantastic.  
Only 500 of these sets exist somewhere in the world and these are in great condition with the certificates and box also in top condition. 
Asking £425 delivered rmsd
Please pm if interested 
                   .......  SOLD ........

#clickbait booom
$25 silver anniversary gold coin 13.82g of .500 gold ( 6.91 AGW) £349 posted
1oz Atlantis mint cast bar £27 posted **sold**
Tis a bargain if you can see something in the coin that I've missed 🤣
 
 
 

Glenfiddich 18 year old w/tube 70cl
Price: £50 + postage. 
 
Payment by BT
Thanks for looking.

chinese complaining about inferior products.  have they looked at wish.com?
 
oh the brass neck!  ( in this case silver and copper 🤣 )

I bet the charity shop thought they would never shift that shirt.

It always brings out the worse in people when money is involved

Only just seen this @Charliemouse thanks will give it a read later on

This is a follow-up tutorial to:
This is for those with a little more time, who want to get accurate and visually satisfying results with their photographs
There are three main techniques here, which can be used independently or together.  None of them are expensive; in fact the third one is free; but they do take a little effort and knowledge.
1. Using grey cards (‘gray’ for Americans)
A ‘grey card’ is exactly that.  A piece of card that is grey.  A professionally produced photographic grey card, from a reputable vendor, will be fade-resistance and precisely calibrated to be a neutral colour, i.e. exactly balanced with no hue.  For coins and other precious metals, I would recommend a small card, maybe 2x4 inches or thereabouts.  Should definitely cost well below £10.
A white card will also do well, although grey cards are easier to use and are less likely to fade or discolour over time.  A piece of white paper may also help, but be wary as it is easy for the paper to be slightly off-white, and this will affect the colour balance significantly.
At the other end of the scale, you can take it further and buy colour cubes, colour reference targets, and specialist software to calibrate your photographs.  Those are beyond the scope of this tutorial - if you are in the market for those, I am not going to be teaching you anything here.
There are basically 2 ways to use a grey card: a) reference shot, or b) in shot.  Both have pros and cons.
a) Reference shot
Take photograph(s) of your coin(s) as normal, but just before or after, replace your coin with the grey card.  Put the card in the same place, and at the same angle, and photograph it.  This will provide you with a reference neutral colour, that you can then adjust to.
Using photo adjustment software, you would then measure the correct colour balance or adjustments using the reference shot, and apply exactly the same to the real shot(s).  There are too many different photography applications for me to cover exactly how to do this here, but you should find it under ‘white balance’.
Advantages: the coin photograph is unaffected, you don’t need to recompose or move anything, and you should be measuring the exact same conditions because the card is in the same place as the coin.
Disadvantage: takes a bit more time, needs post-processing software, should not be used when the lighting situation can change quickly, e.g. if you are using natural light, and a cloud covers the sun, it can make a dramatic difference.
b) In shot
Here, you include the grey card in the photograph with the coin.  The card needs to be at the same angle and under the same lighting as the coin.  Just widen the shot so that the card is in the frame.  Once taken, you can crop out the card before sharing your final image.
A variation of this is simply to use a white, lighter or grey background for the coin, but this is down to the desired aesthetics.
Advantages: quicker, may enable the auto white balance feature of the camera to make a better ‘guess’, useful when the lighting conditions may change between photographs.
Disadvantages: may be awkward to compose the image wider depending on space, should not be used if the lighting is very local, i.e. only the coin is lit, because the card would not be under the same conditions and the white balance may vary across the scene.
2. Photographic lighting
This falls into 2 main categories, flashes and monitor lights.  For the purposes of coin photography, flashes are unnecessary, difficult to use and expensive.  So for this tutorial, I will focus on monitor lights.
For between £50 and £150, depending on features and brand, you can buy a ‘monitor’, ‘video’ or panel light.  It should have a high CRI value (90+), which is a measure of its colour accuracy and how natural it is.  And it should either have a known fixed colour temperature, preferably around 5,600 Kelvin (daylight), or an adjustable temperature.  (White balance is measured in temperature Kelvin - don't worry about it - just know lower numbers are yellower and higher numbers are bluer. For this tutorial, it doesn't matter.)
Simply set it to a known value, set your camera’s white balance to the same value, and snap away.  This should be all you need to do.  A modification of this is to photograph in RAW mode, and then use software to set the white balance to the light’s known temperature afterwards - see below.  If you do not shoot using RAW, adjusting the white balance later will always be harder and a compromise.
You need to ensure that the monitor light is the only (or overwhelming) light in the scene.  Lights in the room, through the window, etc, will all influence the photograph, and change the final colour.  Also, lights will reflect off different surfaces of the coin, and produce odd colour patches.  Therefore, you may want to invest in a light box to cut out all the other light sources.  They are available for around £30 upwards, depending on size, or you can make one with a cardboard box and black cloth.
Another consideration is that having a single light source can lead to bright spots, or undesirable highlights on the subject.  This is especially a problem with precious metals that are prone to reflections.  You can easily solve this by diffusing the light using cooking parchment (greaseproof paper), net curtains or similar material, or photographic diffusion paper (a little more expensive, but a neutral colour).  Simply hang the diffusion material in front of the light, preferably making the light source bigger as a positive side effect.
3. Shoot RAW
(This has nothing to do with whether you wear clothes while photographing.  Although I strongly recommend it, as coins can be very reflective. 😁)
This one is a bit more technical, but is free to implement.  You just need some understanding of the principles.
All but the earliest of cameras and phones, have the ability to shoot in what is called RAW.  You can use free, 3rd-party camera apps, e.g. Open Camera, if necessary.
You are doubtless familiar with JPEG files, the ubiquitous image files used everywhere, and by default your camera will generate JPEG files.
However, JPEG files have several disadvantages.
Lossy compression.  Detail will be lost, and noise added, in order to compress the file to a smaller size.  Worse still, every time you load the file into an editor, make a change and save it, the image will get worse. Narrow dynamic range.  JPEG can store 8 bits (256 values) for each red, green and blue value in the image.  Your camera is capable of capturing at least 10 bits, and the latest cameras 12-14 bits.  So at best, three quarters of the possible range of values are thrown away, and possibly 98% is discarded. In-camera processing.  An image, displayable in all browsers and devices across the world, needs to be produced.  So certain safe, generic assumptions are made, and baked into the file.  These include white balance, colour gamut, etc. Ultimately, you need to turn your photograph into a universally acceptable format, for sharing online, and JPEG is a perfectly adequate choice.  You could use PNG, TIFF or numerous others.  So, if you need to use JPEG anyway, what’s the advantage in shooting RAW?
Firstly, for any work you need to do after the shot is taken but before sharing, i.e. post-processing, you should work in a format that does not degrade with each save, for obvious reasons.
Secondly, and most relevant to this tutorial, shooting in RAW does not apply white balancing to the image.  I will use a physical filter analogy.  Each time an image is changed from the original, it is like adding a coloured filter to a light.  You can’t take a filter away.  So you add a filter, but then you need to correct it slightly, so you add another filter.  And then you need to correct that, so you add another filter.
So the incorrect white balance applied by your camera, needs to be corrected with another filter, which inevitably won’t be a perfect solution, so should then be corrected, again, etc.
Instead, working with RAW files allows you to get everything right with the most original possible version of the image.  RAW files should be immutable - any changes can be undone, or are saved separately, so the original is always preserved.
Use a post-processing application (or phone app) to apply the right white balance to the image, get the exposure right, crop it, and when everything is right, save as JPEG and share.
Summary
Shoot in RAW if at all possible (top advice!).  It makes everything else easier. Use a grey card to get an accurate reference for the white balance of the scene, especially if you are not in control of an accurate light source. Limit the number of different light sources.  You may want to use a photographic light and/or a light box. Examples of colour calibrated photos of gold:

... or worse?
😎

Meh find the two of most aggressive dogs you can buy and put the  box behide them release the hounds🤪

What is it exactly?
😎

Can you send me the info for the £500 kg please, for research purposes obviously 🙄 

Just block @HerefordBullyunand you'll have have a much nicer time.
@Gruffis fine though, he posts things of fine taste, unlike some.

This forum is worth every bit of the £199 per year even if only you sell one or two coins without out eBay and PayPal tax……plus I’ve met some really great people here some in person.
this place is very self policing and people do look out for one another.  
 
not had any issues either buying or selling, I much prefer to deal with people here than muppets on eBay. 
 
 

 
 

I wouldn't even touch those with James' dyson.

So welcome the pre testing world of blockchain / CBDC testing element. And KYC (know your customer) which is validated by banks.  @Gruff knows what I mean in the IT world...
 Banks are starting to test anyone, go and get 10000 out a bank account with cash and they will ask you what you are doing and possibly less..
The world now is about control period - and in the land of the blind the one eyed man is king....

I personally wouldn't pay any premium for them 

I will give you £375 for it

Bars have a high mintage & the coins don’t so the coins will hold a higher premium 

well if your selling one, put up a picture for inspection purposes would help some people 😃
 

The best answer you can give to any unexpected phone call you may receive is the simple word NO 
These stories you read of ID theft, stolen funds, etc would have been very easily resolved with my instructions noted above