Graded coins

[Richard82]

Hi everyone.

What's the highest graded coins that people look for?

What's the lowest grade that you would buy before it's just another bullion coin?

[James32]

1 hour ago, Richard82 said:

Hi everyone.

What's the highest graded coins that people look for?

What's the lowest grade that you would buy before it's just another bullion coin?

PF70 ( PROOF ) or MS70 (BULLION) are the highest grades achievable and most sought after.

Personally anything below MS68 is just another bullion coin. That being said that only applies to modern coins, older coins from the 60s backwards you would be ecstatic with MS64 or better, then older again you get into the AU grades.

[Leonmarsh]

All depends 

A top pop In a coin from the 1500s  maybe maybe au53 

In modern unless you have a 70 it's a death to the coin 

Hard one to answer 

[Leonmarsh]

Sometimes grading can validate a coin 

In the case of my Indian head which probably 1/4 are fake I have got some coins graded for peace of mind 

For a sovereign between 1817 and say 1900 I would say and ms grade is good if you pay the right money for it 

Of course high MS grades in say an 1817 would cost thousands and a high MS grade in a Edward sov little over spot 

In short its complicated for me 

I have bought raw coins off here photographed very well and a disaster when they arrived cleaned and so on, so again grading gives you a more accurate description 

Then I have seen coin graded the same and one of them looks like a turd so buy the coin not the grade 

 

[Leonmarsh]

Examples of two AU58 Indian one has a scratch through the headdress,was defined headrests and detail in the necklace 

THe face on the the one with the scratch is better with a more defined ribbon to the headress so coins would come out equal I suppose the the reasons above 

Grading is subjective by some coin geek in America 

Edited November 4, 2023 by Leonmarsh

[Richard82]

I sent 32 1 oz gold coins in for grading and I'm just debating which ones I'll keep for the long run and which ones to potentially trade or sell.

I'll keep the low grade ones in the cases because it helps people know they getting proper gold.

 

[James32]

1 minute ago, Richard82 said:

I sent 32 1 oz gold coins in for grading and I'm just debating which ones I'll keep for the long run and which ones to potentially trade or sell.

I'll keep the low grade ones in the cases because it helps people know they getting proper gold.

 

What types of coins were they? 

[Gruff]

4 minutes ago, Richard82 said:

I sent 32 1 oz gold coins in for grading and I'm just debating which ones I'll keep for the long run and which ones to potentially trade or sell.

I'll keep the low grade ones in the cases because it helps people know they getting proper gold.

 

@James32 sounds like you've got competition as the whale of the Forum... 

[Leonmarsh]

@James32 on the phone to gold digger Dave right now 🤣🤣🤣

 

 

[Richard82]

2 minutes ago, James32 said:

What types of coins were they? 

I mixture of the last 2023 britannias, yale and king Arthur. 

[James32]

1 minute ago, Richard82 said:

I mixture of the last 2023 britannias, yale and king Arthur. 

Ahh I thought they may be modern, you really want MS68-MS70 then ( with no obvious blemishes) 

[Leonmarsh]

Bullion coins are probably not worth grading as they will only worth bullion there is limited if no nusmimatic value, they are not coins for one irrespective of the 25 quid written on them, never circulated will never be used to buy anything so not a coin 

The denomination is just to avoid CGT 

For me the passion is pursuing a coin used in daily commerce which has survived in a high grade

 

Edited November 4, 2023 by Leonmarsh

[James32]

5 minutes ago, Gruff said:

@James32 sounds like you've got competition as the whale of the Forum... 

Na all Richards money went on grading 😆 

[Richard82]

1 minute ago, James32 said:

Ahh I thought they may be modern, you really want MS68-MS70 then ( with no obvious blemishes) 

Most of the come back them or higher.

Only 6 lower. Happy day's 

[James32]

Just now, Richard82 said:

Most of the come back them or higher.

Only 6 lower. Happy day's 

The higher will certainly cover grading costs, the lower like you say proves authenticity. If there's any 70s then you can certainly achieve a bit of profit. 

[Leonmarsh]

Always wondered this 

In any other walk of life if you bought something brand new and it wasnt perfect i.e a 70 people wouldn't have it 

Imagine your brand new car, it's only a 69 or a 68 we couldn't quite the panel straight but it is only a car 

All new coins should be 70 

I.e sorry about fat Dave's pube on your coin but it is only a bullion coin 

I don't give a **** Anne Jessop get fat Dave to trim his bush ya 🔔 end 

Edited November 4, 2023 by Leonmarsh

[Richard82]

2 minutes ago, James32 said:

The higher will certainly cover grading costs, the lower like you say proves authenticity. If there's any 70s then you can certainly achieve a bit of profit. 

5 britannias 1 of each of the others ate 70 2 69 and rest 68.

Hopefully the britannias will do well in the future but who knows

[pricha]

As i only collect older sovereign's a MS 61 or above would be nice but very expensive. I'd take a AU grade but probably break it out of the slab depending on condition of the case. Some look awful scratched .

For my Victoria shilling collection id buy any decent grade within a fair price range. I've seen very high graded Shillings and they have such ugly tarnish they look dreadful. It's a balance act. I'd like a high grade but to be able to make out what it is. Not such a problem with gold . Modern coins i have no interest but i think it odd a   PF70  would be worth so much more than a PF69 , which most will turn their nose. But i wonder how many collectors could actually tell the difference between the two if they had to choose without checking the label. 

[Leonmarsh]

3 minutes ago, pricha said:

As i only collect older sovereign's a MS 61 or above would be nice but very expensive. I'd take a AU grade but probably break it out of the slab depending on condition of the case. Some look awful scratched .

For my Victoria shilling collection id buy any decent grade within a fair price range. I've seen very high graded Shillings and they have such ugly tarnish they look dreadful. It's a balance act. I'd like a high grade but to be able to make out what it is. Not such a problem with gold . Modern coins i have no interest but i think it odd a   PF70  would be worth so much more than a PF69 , which most will turn their nose. But i wonder how many collectors could actually tell the difference between the two if they had to choose without checking the label. 

In short you can't unless there under 30 x magnification were you will see a traces of sticky finger from gene, Dave's missus 

That bit of baby gravy will cost you a few hundred quid 

Thanks Dave, you absolute first class one of a kind  knob jockey 

Edited November 4, 2023 by Leonmarsh

[pricha]

30 x magnification ? That's my new glasses 

[Leonmarsh]

3 minutes ago, pricha said:

30 x magnification ? That's my new glasses 

Bloody hell pricha you must be a 6 times a day ham shanker to be that blind lol 🤣

[pricha]

That's another point i made. How many people have paid a premium for a graded coin and the plastic case has a million scratches on it ?

[Richard82]

What you guys value these at? My dad left them to me before he died

I full sovereign Australian 1980 and 1/4 sovereign Isle of man 2008

Just now, pricha said:

That's another point i made. How many people have paid a premium for a graded coin and the plastic case has a million scratches on it ?

Mine hardly ever come out of the box for that reason. 

[James32]

1/4 sovereign approx £100-£105

Full sovereign I don't think is actually a sovereign, at least not something I've ever seen, what weight is it?

[pricha]

2 minutes ago, Leonmarsh said:

Bloody hell pricha you must be a 6 times a day ham shanker to be that blind lol 🤣

only when i have my Victoria young heads out !