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DoubleEagle

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  1. Of course I don't know. It seems like 4A + E to me.
  2. When you see that EPNS it is Electroplate. W . A in an oval looks like the mark used on sterling by William Aitken of Birmingham. I've seen many scratched marks before and don't know what they are. My friends and I speculate they are identifying marks placed by one of the item's previous owners. Nice piece by the way.
  3. OK then if you want, seek out a few dealers who are enthusiastic to deal with Brinks storage and Strata IRA custodian. If you can't find anyone talk to CNI out in LA area. Golddealer.com. They only trade over the phone, and have an 800 number.
  4. DoubleEagle

    Gold Jewelry

    They have charts or a computer program where you might be selling. But you have the right idea. Separate 14k from 10k and 18k into different bags or boxes. That way, when you are selling a batch, the negotiation is for just the 14k bag. Weigh what you are selling in grams. They usually quote scrap jewellery prices by the gram, with different prices for 10k, 14k, and 18k. It is common to pay 60-70% of spot price. 70% is a pretty good deal. Anyway, you want to know how many grams you have, and what they are paying per gram. So say you have 52.78 grams of 14k. 52.78 gr / 24 = 2.1991. Then 2.1991 x 14k = 30.788 gr pure gold; that is very near to one troy ounce. So you could expect 60-70% of the spot price for one troy ounce. One troy ounce is 31.1 grams.
  5. Well you have a PM IRA and they do not normally segregate silver because it is too bulky. You can usually pay extra and have gold segregated, but since this is an IRA and you can't touch the metal few people do this. But it doesn't really matter because you direct the sale later, and you never are allowed to see or touch the metal. The custodian has the metal, and you normally pick the bullion depository that the custodian will use. So say you are retired and want to get an income check many years from now. You arrange with the custodian to sell some silver through the dealer you choose. So you still never see the metal. The dealer you pick then sends a check to your custodian. The custodian posts this money as cash to your account. It usually makes money market interest when held as cash. Now you tell custodian to issue you a distribution, which does not need to be the entire current cash balance. If you want to sell some before you retire (and possibly then invest in something else), the same process is used, but you simply leave out the distribution step. Therefore, you can buy the cheapest thing you can find per ounce; you won't be touching it anyway, nor auctioning off on ePay or anything like that. Because of the way the whole thing works, most do not buy coins. The account quickly becomes all about 'how many ounces' are in storage. So you may buy 1000 oz. COMEX bars, or 100 oz investor bars, or whatever you want. If you still want to buy coins, consider Maples or Philharmonics, etc, etc. That's because these are selling for $22 an oz, whereas the eagles are $25 an ounce. There is no huge hurry if you can't find a deal to your liking. The custodian will hold in cash and pay you interest while you are finding a deal you like. You can also buy gold, which has a lower premium versus silver. With gold, you can segregate if you want. But most people buy bars (such as kilo bar, or 10 oz bar) and do not segregate. If your storage was not an IRA, then all of this would change. In that case, people do pay for segregation, and then pick the exact thing they want. And then when they want some metal delivered, they pay a fee and it is delivered to your house.
  6. Just a guess; looks like an import mark. Import marks required .925 starting in 1904. The CAC looks like C&C to me. It is worn down low, obscuring some of the A or &. If C&C, then that mark looks like Cohen & Charles. So it is possible it was imported from foreign source by Albert Cohen & Charles Soloman between 1904 and 1958; after 1958 C&C was sold to Rose. The date mark would be the L looking one. London had such a mark in 1926. Even the box outline around the L looks similar to 1926. The * sort of mark could be assay or maker. It appears assay because there are others marked at London like it in 1925 and 1926. They dropped the handy F for foreign mark in 1904.
  7. In USA buy for spot + $1.00; sell for spot - $0.60. That is everyday price. Sometimes can buy cheaper. Those are nice bars and would likely get some premium from collector. However, collector likes smaller bars more, and not big bars like kilo or 100 oz.
  8. "craft foam" is just foam and 2mm thick. It comes in sheets. Felt is also usually 2mm thick and comes in sheets and remnants. Table foam is padding for beneath the felt on gaming tables. It is usually 1/4 inch thick, or about 5-6 mm. It comes in 60 inch-wide rolls, and is sold by the foot in length. Cloth-backed foam is just that, and comes in 1/4 and 1/2 inch thicknesses. It comes in 54 inch-wide rolls, up to 20 yards long. Stif-Felt is actually not really felt. It is synthetic felt. It is 5-6mm thick and self-adhesive in sheets. Weighs 59 oz per yard. 4x5 foot sheets. You might like "tool box foam" which is a "soft foam" to cushion tools. People put it in the drawers of their tool boxes. They may cut-out outlines to shadow their tools as well. This can be had in 1/4, 1/2, and one inch. Most of the felts are not actually wool, but synthetic. But you can layer real felt above some rubber type foam.
  9. Ooh good question. Some older models are popular. Also some sellers mark the used ones higher than what they will sell them for as well.And then again some are simply too expensive all of the time. You need watch to figure out if the price is a firm one, or if they actually expect haggling. When you say invest in a watch, Rolex comes to mind right away. Any Rolex. Whereas with many other brands you would want certain models.
  10. There is requirement to collect and remit sales tax based upon the address the stuff is being shipped to. Note the seller is required based upon the shipping address, no matter what the buyer may claim his residence, and so forth. Most states do not require tax on silver and gold. States that require tax on silver and gold: Arkansas, District of Columbia, Hawaii, Kentucky, Maine, Minnesota, Mississippi, New Jersey, New Mexico, Ohio, Tennessee, Vermont, and Wisconsin. Those are the evil 13. States with a threshold limit: California rule: sales of silver and gold are exempt only if the transaction is $1,500 or more. Connecticut rule: sales of silver and gold are exempt only if the transaction is $1,000 or more. Maryland rule: sales of silver and gold are exempt only if the transaction is $1,000 or more. Massachusetts rule: sales of silver and gold are exempt only if the transaction is $1,000 or more. New York rule: sales of silver and gold are exempt only if the transaction is $1,000 or more. Virginia rule: sales of silver and gold are exempt only if the transaction is $1,000 or more. So a person can conduct tax-free sales between people in most states. Some sellers want to avoid collecting tax, and therefore do not ship to the evil 13. Some sellers also do not want to handle a tax transaction in states that have a threshold limit, and that's another six states.
  11. Do you like the Oyster style bracelet, or the Jubilee style? I have had and like both. Here's Oyster style Hamilton. I found on UK site here: https://www.firstclasswatches.co.uk/hamilton-mens-khaki-field-auto-40mm-swiss-made-h70595133-p-38152/
  12. If you want the whole set, there are a few that are expensive. 96W Olympic Cauldron MS ~ $700 97W Jackie Robinson MS ~ $900 14W Hall of Fame, individual players. The basic coin is ~ $500, but the individual payers are very high. So you could skip the players. Those are the problem coins in MS. Not too bad really.
  13. Yeah, you got the idea: the auto are more expensive usually. If you wear all the time, you do not need to set the time very often. I see your likes with coins, and think you may enjoy a little mechanical marvel like an automatic. It is fun to shop, buy, and then wear the perfect watch ... sort of like shopping for the those certain coins that you like. The exact style will be a personal decision though. The idea is to get enjoyment out of looking at your watch.
  14. Heya Paecemaker Have a look at website www.jomashop.com when you feel like browsing. Not because you should buy there, but because they display just about everything in watches. You need to decide battery (quartz), or Automatic. You can get entry-level Swiss movements (the guts of the watch are called movement). The entry-level are actually great watches! Brands are Tissot and Hamilton, and not-Swiss is Seiko. Hamilton has worked for me in the past. If you want, check out Hamilton Khaki Navy Automatic for a similar bezel to what you are showing in your post.
  15. Began collecting in 1965. My parents became aware the coins were no longer silver, so we started keeping any old silver coins found in circulation. And my mother got me one of those blue albums to collect Lincoln pennies. Began stacking for weight after the Hunt brothers tried to corner the silver market, ca. 1980.
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