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My Precious Metals

  • Metals I am interested in
  • I am interested in
    Collectible bullion & Semi Numismatics
    Numismatics (Proof coins)
  • My current Stack/Collection is mainly

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  1. I believe that there is no set amount that anyone should be aiming for, rather a stacker should formulate their own sort of checklist of conditions to be met prior to choosing to add silver to the stack. Price, premiums, availability, % of total investment, means of storage, etc. all good considerations to take into account. I think if you have conviction behind the reasons why you have chosen to purchase metals to begin with, then you are selling yourself short by choosing to stop buying silver just because you have reached an arbitrary set amount of ounces. Me personally? I like to
  2. Yes to the above comment. Stick that bad boy in a tupperware with a couple of hardboiled eggs split open and leave over night. The colorful toning will look ridiculous and you probably won't even notice the milk spots anymore.
  3. I personally would buy all 30 of those mooses and then do 10 of each bar type.
  4. Added this nice little chunk of commemorative gold to the ranks:
  5. I have seen in many instances silver forming a natural golden color as a result of toning (obviously vastly different from actual gold). That spot that you mention appears to be a tiny crevice, as a result of the pour, which is also quite common with these types of bars.
  6. Those are some nice looking bars to me!
  7. Hello, I have 8x complete rolls of pre-1965 90% silver Washington quarters, mixed dates and levels of wear (many are 1960 or newer) for sale. I am asking $220 per roll. Pictures available by request. Accepting zelle transfer, bank wire transfer, or Paypal. Shipping will depend on the quantity purchased and can be discussed prior to sale. Thanks!
  8. Went against my better judgement and paid the current high premium (still cheapest I could find) for this tube and was glad to see 17 out of the 20 were '95, which is a fairly low mintage year. They aren't BU but still in great shape for their age. Only one coin came in noticeably dinged up compared to the rest, so overall satisfied.
  9. Shouldn't make any difference. Any metal that is chosen to alloy into gold, be it copper or silver should be fine getting a dose of a simple torch lighter. Test it out on seperate coinage first if you'd like to see. 👍
  10. I would hit it for a short time with a torch lighter. That has worked wonders on 24 ct gold bullion for me with spots like that.
  11. I just picked up a tube of "off quality" Silver Eagles, which implies that they will be tarnished/spotted/or otherwise beat up. For government minted bullion, I believe that you can't go wrong buying these, regardless of your intention, provided the price reflects the quality (as Alex944 pointed out).
  12. I appreciate the informative ebay shopping wisdom. My normal strategy is to steer clear of any sellers without at least a 99% positive rating and no fewer than 1,000+ transactions. I would probably rather pay a bit more just for complete piece of mind, which is why I generally try to buy from major online dealers. Unfortunately, there are no LCS in my town, with the nearest one being an hour and a half away. I do have my share of lovely BU Eagles, which I will probably hold onto indefinitely... however I believe that even scratched and milk spotted ones are worth acquiring, since they
  13. In my experience purchasing imperfect or cull Eagles, the typical problems are light milk spotting or a few minor scratches here or there. And if they do end up being colored, I wouldn't feel bad cleaning that crud off of them in the slightest. I buy and sell Eagles as recognizable bullion, and they always hold a premium regardless. But congrats on buying a couple of 86' in great condition for $36. I was opposed to spending this much on Eagles for a long time, but ultimately I believe it will still be very much worthwhile, especially in the likely scenario that spot rises to $40, $50, and
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