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  1. It was from a brick and mortar coin/antiques dealer.....😬 PM me if you want the details I think I will go back to the dealer and let him know about the dots and NGC sticker placement
  2. Thanks all for the input I overlooked the NGC sticker placement and paid too much attention to the details. You guys seem right that it clearly does not match the NGC photos from that alone. I think I need to invest in a Sigma and carry it around with me 😅 Haha, thanks for going to that length of verification!
  3. Hi metal people Went browsing today and noticed this for sale. I picked up the holder and something seemed off. - The insert moulding is not sharp, and surface is “streaky”, maybe from poor moulds. - Ink on the label is rather dull and fuzzy - Barcode is not crisp - Strike of the Queens face is not quite right https://www.ngccoin.com/certlookup/3235194-003/69/ Unusually, the photos on NGC are rather blurry. Not sure if this is expected. Any thoughts from fellow Forum members?
  4. This is my understanding: A dealer will have two different prices for buying and selling gold. For example, assuming gold is £1,000 per ounce: Dealer buys at 96% of spot: (0.96*1000) = £960 per ounce Dealer sells at 3% over spot: (1.03*1000) = ££1,030 per ounce. This is also called the premium. The dealer makes money and covers his costs in the above difference between the buy/sell price. This is also known as the spread. You can calculate this in absolute terms, which is the £ difference, or express it as a percentage. In the above example, the spread is (1030-960) = £70 in absolute terms. As a percentage it is ((70/960)*100) = 7.29% If you buy and sell frequently, you will be interested in the spread, which can differ amongst different dealers. If you primarily buy, then you may be interested in the premium above spot. Aim to buy bullion close to (or lower than) spot where possible. To give you an indication of how well you are doing, you can also pool your gold purchases. You add up the total weight of pure gold and total up the price paid for all that gold. You then divide the total purchase price by the total weight (grams is easier). You now know how much your portfolio of gold is worth against the market value per given weight unit. This makes sense if you have lots of different gold coins paid for at different prices. Let me know if anyone spots a mistake in my thinking! Hope that helps
  5. Thank you all for the kind messages. @BackyardBullion I watch your videos! @fehk2001 🐲🀄🇭🇰🐉
  6. Hello everyone, I’ve been an occasional lurker here but only recently started to get back into gold and silver. You can probably tell by my chosen username that I am into Chinese/HK/East Asian themed coins! But I am really into anything that interests me. Happy stacking
  7. Hi all, Long time lurker here. I recently started to buy much older Sovereigns instead of newly minted ones. I picked up a 1913 Sovereign from a reputable dealer (HGM). The Sovereign in question appears to have unusually high rims, which makes it thicker. The diameter also is larger compared to my 1911/1912/pre-decimal QE Sovereigns. Unfortunately, I do not have calipers on hand. The coin would not fit through the slot of a brass Victorian Sovereign scale. Forgot to note whether it was too big for the platter, as I tested it on someone else’s scale. Weight is bang on 8g on my kitchen scales. Please would any of the experienced members here help figure out whether this Sovereign looks genuine? The only difference I can see on the strike of the coin is the blobby plume (less distinguishable waves) on the helmet of St George. I asked HGM about the above, but they merely stated that they weigh and test all their coins. They mentioned that some coins may be thinner due to more wear. I have about 8 Sovereigns from mixed years, and this is the only one that stands out due to the thickness and diameter. Thanks for looking! https://imgur.com/gallery/nVwFSjt
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